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JUCHITÁN DE ZARAGOZA, Oaxaca - Marluu Ferretti climbs into a chair at the local beauty salon to get her hair done for the annual festivity known as Vela de la Santa Cruz de Los Pescadores, one of roughly 25 fiestas held in Spring to honor the Patron Saint of Juchitán Vicente Ferrer.As the hairdresser transforms Marluu's bushy curls into one big iconic Mexican braid, she says she’s looking forward to dancing and drinking at the party.“When I entered the women’s restroom, several female students complained to the administration,” Naomi says. He said I couldn’t go in either the women’s or men’s room.I told him, 'Where do you want me to do my necessities?The muxe tradition is local and indigenous, and its own thing.As an outsider, one can’t help but wonder what we might learn about gender everywhere by looking at this one remote town where gender norms have been openly challenged for decades.

Naomi, an activist who took her name from British supermodel Naomi Campbell, has adopted some of the terminology of the current trans movement.

I was afraid to kiss him, thinking that if he found out he would harm me.

One day we were in his car and I told him I needed to confess something; I told him I was born a man.

Some of the self-identified straight men who frequent muxes are locally referred to as “mayates,” or dung beetles.

It’s a derogatory term for local boys who prostitute themselves to the muxes.

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